Seixal beach: black sand and free pools

Where to swim in Seixal: beach, pools or Poças das Lesmas

In Portuguese, seixo means pebble, so Seixal sounds like a place named after stones. The Porto Moniz council tells a different story: the name comes from seixo or seiço, a small streamside willow whose wood made good casks for wine, once the parish’s main product. The black sand beach is just as deceptive. It looks as if it has always been there, yet according to Visit Madeira it formed naturally only a few years ago, beside the harbour.

Today the village has three places to swim, and they are easy to confuse. The first two sit together at the harbour. The third is on the far side of the village, 1.6 km away by car.

Choose the beach for sand and space, and the Clube Naval pools if you want a lounger and a bar close by. Poças das Lesmas are the natural pools in all the photos, with the lava arch: calm, clear water at the bottom of a steep descent that feels harder on the way back. To see all three, start at the harbour and save the Poças for last, when you no longer have beach gear to carry.

How to get to Seixal by car and by bus

By car it is 42 km and about 50 minutes: VR1 to Ribeira Brava, the VE4 through the tunnel to São Vicente, then the VE2 west. The route never climbs into the mountains, so the ER105 closure this autumn does not affect it. There are few spaces by the harbour, and some are paid or private. If it is full, use the marked spaces on the road above and walk down.

The trip out takes 3 h 10, because the 340 waits 35 minutes in Ribeira Brava and 10 in São Vicente, while the return takes 2 h through the tunnel. The fare is €2.65 on board, cash only, or €2.00 with a GIRO card; our guide to Madeira without a car covers the rest. You get about 5 hours in Seixal, more than at Ribeira da Janela or Porto Moniz.

The SIGA timetable just says Seixal, with no stop name or walking distance. Maps show Rodoeste stops on the road above the harbour, about 500 m from the beach, and another near the way down to Poças das Lesmas. Tell the driver where you are going, and on the way back be at the stop early: the 341 passes once a day.

When to go and what to do if the sea is rough

People come all year: Visit Madeira describes the beach as popular in every season for bodyboarding, canoeing and stand up paddling. For swimming, summer is the safe bet, and the council rates the water as excellent. All of this depends on the sea, because this coast takes it head on. Go in the morning, before the parking fills, and check conditions before you count on a swim.

• Check the warnings before you leave. IPMA, the Portuguese weather service, issues rough sea warnings for the north coast. If there is one, do not plan to swim.
• Stay away from the rocks. Poças das Lesmas and the breakwater seem safe until a bigger wave comes in. In heavy seas, watch from above.
• Swap the swim for the mountains. Fanal Forest is 19 km away, and rough seas make no difference up there.
• If it rains, keep Véu da Noiva on the list. The waterfall loses nothing in the wet, and it is on the way.

Véu da Noiva waterfall: where to find the viewpoint

Some 2.8 km from the harbour, towards São Vicente, is one of the most shared viewpoints on this coast. It stands on the old road between São Vicente and Seixal, and the Bride’s Veil waterfall has an origin few guides explain: it is the hanging mouth of the Ribeira de João Delgado. Erosion pushed the coast back so quickly that the stream was left stranded on the cliff, and it now falls straight into the sea. Ten minutes is enough and it costs nothing. You see the waterfall from the viewpoint, with no access to the base.

How long to stay and what to bring

One hour is enough to see the beach and go down to Poças das Lesmas. To swim, allow half a day. If you have time left, drive up to Chão da Ribeira, a deep valley above Seixal where the Laurissilva forest sits alongside old cattle sheds.

• Flip-flops or water shoes. Black sand heats up in the sun, and the rocks are hard on bare feet.
• Cash in notes and coins. The bus does not take cards, so keep your return fare separate.
• An extra layer. This is the north coast, and it cools down once the sun drops behind the mountains.

Seixal, Ribeira da Janela, Porto Moniz and Fanal in one day

The classic order, from the mountains to the sea, is in our Fanal Forest guide. This is the reverse, for people who would rather start by the water: a morning swim on a quiet beach, then Fanal in the late afternoon, the other good window for fog.

1. At 08:30, leave Funchal through the São Vicente tunnel, stopping at Véu da Noiva around 09:20.
2. At 09:45, Seixal: the beach and, from 10:00, the Clube Naval pools. Leave at 11:30.
3. At 11:45, Ribeira da Janela, 7 km away: half an hour with the sea stacks.
4. At 12:30, Porto Moniz: lunch and the pools, €3, until 17:00 in winter and 19:00 in summer.
5. At 15:45, drive up the ER209 to Fanal, 14 km. Stay an hour and wait for the clouds.
6. At 17:15, head back across Paul da Serra and down to Ponta do Sol: 49 km, arriving around 18:30.

This order only works on long days. From November to January the sun sets between 18:00 and 18:40, and driving down the mountain at night, with fog and cows on the road, is a risk with no reward. In those months, use the classic order.

By bus, all four will not fit into one day: Fanal has no service, and the 340 and 341 pass once. Stay in Seixal, the stop with the most time, and leave the rest for another day.

Frequently asked questions

Is Seixal beach black sand?

Yes, and it is natural sand, rare on an island of pebbles. It formed a few years ago next to the harbour, has a shower, toilets and a bar, and entry is free.

Are the natural pools in Seixal free?

The Clube Naval pools are, from 10:00 to 19:00, with a sun terrace, bar, showers and toilets. Poças das Lesmas are also free to enter, according to the Porto Moniz council.

How do I get from Funchal to Seixal by bus?

Take route 340, which leaves Funchal at 09:00 and reaches Seixal at 12:10. The return passes at 17:15 on weekdays and at 17:45 on weekends and holidays. The fare is €2.65 on board, cash only.

Where is the Véu da Noiva waterfall?

On the old road between São Vicente and Seixal, 2.8 km from Seixal harbour. The waterfall is the hanging mouth of the Ribeira de João Delgado, and you see it from the viewpoint for free. Ten minutes is enough.

Seixal or Porto Moniz: where should I swim?

Seixal has black sand and free pools. Porto Moniz has larger pools with lifeguards for €3, and it suits small children better. They are 10 km apart, so you can do both in one day.

How long do you need in Seixal?

One hour to see the beach and Poças das Lesmas, half a day to swim. By bus you get about 5 hours, from 12:10 to 17:15 on weekdays.

Is there parking at Seixal beach?

Yes, but there are few spaces by the harbour, and some are paid or private. Arrive in the morning, or use the marked spaces on the road above and walk down.